032. the road to Monsanto
breaking a Portuguese scooter rental shop's record for most km driven in one trip
In light of last week’s post about traveling by motorcycle and my impending trip to Portugal, here is a recap of a big adventure I did in 2019… the first part at least. Paid subscribers get the rest of the journey in their inboxes tomorrow!
June 28, 2019. Lisbon, Portugal
A couple months after getting my motorcycle driver’s license, I somehow got the idea into my head that I should rent a scooter and ride across Portugal. I had a solo trip there planned already and the itinerary had several days to fill.
It was one of those thoughts where something clicks into place and from there it’s inevitable.
As a new rider, I knew that I didn’t know what I didn’t know. I did know that it was ambitious, but did not understand how much longer it takes to go long distances when you’re not in buckled inside a comfy car, and how physically uncomfortable it can be.
It was classic Type 2 fun — that is, “miserable while it’s happening, but fun in retrospect” (quoth REI’s blog). I was young and naive and thirsty for adventure. And, as always, ambitious.
So, after arriving in Lisbon, I spent most of a day just scouting out scooter shops. I ended up making a 6 day reservation for a 125cc Kymco Agility. It was the fastest vehicle they had that I could actually drive — modern scooters generally have automatic transmissions, and motorcycles do not (and I already forgot all my shifting lessons from my motorcycle driver’s ed course).
José, the shop owner, was intrigued by my plan. Most of his customers rented scooters as a fun way of getting around Lisbon. Whereas my plan was to drive it about 180 miles (270 km) northeast to Monsanto, an old village famous for its houses built on/around/inside boulders (not to be confused with an infamous agricultural corporation). Following that, I would circle back down to Lisbon… somehow. Probably via the coastal side of the country. I wasn’t totally sure.
José gave me his WhatsApp number, and got me set up with a helmet, cargo net, phone charger, and other accessories. He also shared his own preferred routes out of Lisbon and recommendations for places to see on the way. There was definitely some secondhand excitement there, which I appreciated. A different person might have tried to talk me out of it. 1
The Agility waited for sunrise from its parking spot on the side of some narrow Lisbon street, as I stayed up late anxiously looking at maps of Portugal. I was not mentally ready, but the plan was already in motion.
June 29, 2019. Lisbon to Castelo Novo.
With my hiking backback lashed onto the rear seat of the scooter, and one earbud snaked into my helmet whispering names of Portuguese streets into my ear, I immediately got lost in Lisbon. Especially with the lack of visual navigation, it was really difficult to navigate Lisbon’s maze of streets.
The worst part was when I crossed over the Vasco da Gama bridge, which turned out to be a freeway. I couldn’t believe this was the route José recommended me. I was going full throttle in the rightmost lane and still holding up traffic. I tried not to panic as I sped at top speed (about 65 mph/100 kph) over 7 miles of windy bridge, crossing the wide Tagus river, well aware of how little my clothing would protect my body if Something Happened.
I took the first exit possible off the bridge and stopped at some random strip mall bakery. Already off course, I pored over Google Maps, trying to sear the directions into my mind that would get me out as fast yet as simply as possible.
I have no memory of the rest of this phase of the journey through the exurbs, but the scenery eventually gave way to open fields and twisty roads.
Once I finally got away from tailgating cars, and out of the last of the Lisbon sprawl, the riding got pretty good. I passed cork tree farms, massive stork nests in electrical towers, and went through countless one-stoplight towns of whitewashed houses. I felt that lightness of freedom, like I was flying over the road. Just me and my Kymco.
I still had to stop frequently — to look at the map when I got off course, and to stretch my aching neck, and to take in the little villages I found myself in for a few minutes. I knew it was the only time in my life I would be in places like Montargil and Ponte do Sor and Arez, so I did do some quick sketches, but I couldn’t afford to spend much time stationary. Too many miles to cover. 180 miles on a scooter is a lot for one day.
After 10 hours of riding, including many more directional mishaps — Google Maps REALLY wants you to take the freeway, and the Avoid Highways option doesn’t work if you’re using offline maps — I finally arrived to my destination for the night: Castelo Novo.
Settled in the 13th century, this charming village built on a hill feels like it should be a UNESCO site. But it seemed like I was the only tourist there.
I checked into my accommodation to find a bottle of wine & a plate of freshly picked fruit put out for me by my hosts — I still think about how sweet those loquats were. After such a mentally and physically taxing day, it felt absolutely amazing to walk around town as the sun set, happy to be alive. I drank a glass of wine (according to my notes it cost €1) at a riverside patio and wrote postcards to friends.
Given how long and hard the day’s ride was, I felt like I could easily have stayed in Castelo Novo for the next 5 days. But that inevitablity was still pushing me forward; I had to get back on the saddle to get to Monsanto. It wasn’t nearly as much distance as Lisbon to Castelo Novo, at least. The plan was in motion, and I was a gear clicking along.
The Portuguese scooter adventure continues tomorrow for paid subscribers…
Thanks to digital magic, all my conversations with José (the scooter shop guy) were saved on my WhatsApp and email! I totally forgot the extent to which he helped me pull off this adventure. He sent me so many recommendations and even checked in on me most days while I was away.
Here’s a message he sent to me a few days into the trip:
By the time you read this I will be BACK IN PORTUGAL for a couple weeks! In addition to returning to Lisbon, I am visiting two areas I didn’t get to see the first time: the coastal Algarve, and then into southeastern Alentejo to teach mixed media sketching at Sofia in Monsaraz! It’ll be such a blast from the past to get into rural Portugal again. I’m sure I’ll be insufferable with scooter ride stories.
Com amor,
Eleanor (linktree)
Unfortunately it looks like José’s rental shop closed down at some point in the last 5 years. Hopefully it’s because he was able to retire and ride his motorcycle to his heart’s content.
Informative
Your courage and ambition are an inspiration! Brava! What an amazing trip... and a potential marriage proposal, to boot! 😆 (Can't wait for part 2!)